Beware of Lonesome Dove References Post
(this has been in my draft folder for about 3 weeks now, and instead of leaving it there to be revised or redrafted, I thought I'd just publish it to avoid seeming like I fell off the face of the earth)
"Ain't it a flatlander who says, 'It's not the heat, it's the humidity.' Let me be the first genius to tell ya, it's not the humidity...it's the heat. If it's 30 below and humid...you ain't hot."
-Rusty Dewees as The Logger
He might change his tune if he came to Southern Japan at this time of year. Luckily Shimane is on the coast of the Sea of Japan, rather in a valley or mountain basin inland, so we get some fresh air to twirl around in every once in a while.
Still, it gets under the skin.
It's the rainy season now and I have to admit the downpours are a pleasure to wake up to in the morning. I've been sleeping with all the windows open. Last week I woke up to a mild thunderstorm at around 4 and the white noise of the driving rain hypnotized me into a dream about flying. That was a good day.
The humidity, though hot and wheezy, forms in clouds around the edges of hills like strings of pearls and two weeks ago greeted David and I at the mouth of an old silver mine shaft in Iwami.
(Did I mention I have a houseguest?)
David arrived on the 15th of June safe and sound in Hiroshima. It's really nice having him here, an outsider's perspective is very welcome, as is a visit from my best friend.
I have to say his presence is like Po Campo walking his mule north to my apartment. He's a breath of fresh air and I'm finally eating well. More REAL meals have been made in my apartment than I ever expected.
I think David is also enjoying the Japanese hospitality that I've come to take for granted. As you know, I complain about school, my undisciplined language studies and small stupid cravings for real pizza and cheddar cheese. Showing someone around has made it apparent that I am very proud of Shimane and the friends I've made here. It was nice to show off Izumo Taisha, and get him in the same room as Doc Kazu and his riddles.
We've been seeing the sites, ill-prepared for rain but lucking out everywhere we go. We saw Hiroshima, Miyajima, Iwami, Omori, last weekend Izumo and Sanbe. This weekend Kyoto, Hanshin Tigers and Nara and before he leaves Yakushima and Tokyo.
My end term lesson plans involve hokey BINGOs about our special guest and summer vacation conversations. Needless to say, my mind has been occupied and I've been forgetting essential things at school and for exams.
During the drive to school one morning I was pondering how to afford accomodation on Yakushima island and almost missed the sky falling on the Gotsu by-pass. A sudden river of thick fog drifted over the bridge and I couldn't see a car length in front of me.
This sudden shift in atmosphere was fantastic. The night before I had read a great description of a sand/wind storm and thunderstorm on the plains of Northern Texas, one that made me wonder why I'm not driving cattle somewhere, but also made me wish I could describe this time of year in Shimane to you. I can't do it justice no matter how hard I try.
There is a creeping, misty haze that curls around hills and veils the entrances of train tunnels. It's hard not to imagine a large headed God from those epic fights in Kagura, it's white teeth sneering and jerking as it leaps out from behind the mist. No wonder dry ice is used with impunity in Kagura performances. Those of you unfamiliar with Kagura, I'm sorry I've never spoken of it. It needs to be shown to you and I'll do that soon.
I have considered the environment of Japan like something out of a fantasy, but I think we're witnessing the most enchanting time yet. Though gray and sticky, it's like something out of their stories, it's the light rain that falls as the monk turns into a fox, the archer to a god or the crane into a wife.
PS ...or the Popura seeds into tomato plants. Look at these suckers! They've been surviving the adverse weather with strength and versatility. If I don't kill them before the middle of August, I'm expecting a healthy tomato harvest. Bruschetta anyone?

2 Comments:
Your tomatoes look soooo good! They will taste better than any tomato you've ever had, trust me. The youth hostel on Yakushima is really nice, I highly recommend it but you need to rent a car to get to it. We didn't and spent way too much time and money on the bus. The hostel also has really good food, be sure to book ahead for a dinner or two. Yakushima is magical, you are going to absolutely love it!
I almost forget...don't live without good cheese!! Life is too short for that! The Foreign Buyers Club has really good cheese at really good prices (huge block for what I would pay at the supermarket here). Cut it into about 6 pieces, wrap them well, then freeze most of them. Once you take them out they may be a little crumbly but they will still taste good.
It's worth it!
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